The past two weeks have been emotionally exhausting but wonderful. I truly could not have asked for a better way to say goodbye than the cafecitos, family dinners, celebrations and heartfelt gifts I received in my last days as a Volunteer in Quebradas.
Me and the ladies of ASOFEQUE
A few of the community organizations that I worked most closely with planned their own small activities to see me off. With the artisan group, AQUA, we had homemade tortillas and coffee in don Roger’s rancho, and all the women began to reflect on their love lives and marriages and offer me advice for what not to do. The women’s group, ASOFEQUE, organized a gathering at the president’s home and we ate nachos and gossiped and they gave me a really nice Costa Rican cookbook to try out on my family and friends at home. Rice for breakfast, anyone?
Lots of love from the Scouts
The Scouts activity was really special. They organized a campfire and about 35 kids showed up and some of their parents and all of the leaders. We sang songs and played games and they dedicated some very nice words to me and then we ate lots of sugary food and I got lots of gigantic hugs. Being adored unconditionally by most children under 12 is something I am definitely going to miss.
Good food with good friends
I also had some really nice meals with individual families and friends. The three Scouts dirigentes, José, Yajaira and Luis Carlos, who had also become my closest friends in Quebradas, surprised me and took me up to this beautiful cabina up a hidden road and made me dinner and we danced and laughed a lot. I had a final post-church lunch with my original host family, who hadn’t invited me over for a meal since I moved out, but better late than never. I had a lovely cafecito with the very humble don Jesús, the only employee at FUDEBIOL, and his wife and son, whose home it was my first time visiting. One family had me over to make pizza, and another made me arroz con pollo, which I had mentioned was my favorite dish in Costa Rica.
Most people I have ever fit in my apartment
I invited all the teenage girls in Quebradas who I had worked with on the community newspaper and butterfly garden over to my apartment for an afternoon of brownie-making and silliness. We listened to music and I gave them a bunch of my clothes and they all got hyper and giggly off the chocolate and took over 100 pictures and we all had a great time. I also had a nice meet up with Luis, Vinyela and Derek, the CED team from the Peace Corps office, who were passing through San Isidro and it was our final goodbye since they were not going to be in the office when I officially COS-ed. They were pretty ideal bosses, in that they never really intruded on our business but were there if we needed help/resources, and they are all great people. And I had one last big night out at the Hotel del Sur in San Isidro for my friend Glenda’s birthday. We literally danced from 10pm to 2am without stopping except when cumbia came on, which I still can’t figure out.
The PZ crew (one member who "got caught in a rainstorm" is conspicuously missing...)
Me and two weirdo distance runners
My second-to-last weekend in Quebradas, we had a little goodbye dinner for the volunteers around Pérez Zeledón at the best restaurant in town, El Gato Sin Dueño. There was a delicious buffet and fun live music and it was a nice way to say goodbye to some of the people who have made my last two years much more enjoyable by offering a nearby social outlet and opportunity to vent/speak English. The next morning Angelo and I ran in a 10K, which don Roger had offered to “sponsor” me for after my big win in the Carrera del Agua. He paid my entry fee and made us t-shirts with MORFOrmas, the name of his business, displayed prominently on the front and back. I ended up winning first in my category again (50mil!) but losing to the same woman as in the last race. It was fun to see a lot of the same people there and get to know the quirky running sub-culture of Southern Costa Rica (see above man in Indian headdress).
On Thursday and Friday of last week, I went down to La Lucha de Sabalito, right by the Panamanian border, to visit Angelo for his 25th birthday. We went to this really beautiful hacienda just outside his community, where we saw an amazing sunrise and hiked to a beautiful waterfall (I may or may not have fallen off the side of the trail on the way back and seriously frightened our guide). Evening celebrations included lots of pork, tequila, beer, music and cake at the local bar.
100 kilos about to become chicharrones
Saturday morning I headed back to Quebradas super early for an important appointment I had with some farmers to slaughter a pig. For my final goodbye celebration, I had told community members that I would buy a pig and invite everyone to eat it, which always makes for a good party. So don Gilberth introduced me to some guys in the business and we negotiated a purchase at 1,100 colones per kilo, including the full preparation of the pig so it would be delivered ready to cook.
Well, it was as gruesome as everybody said it would be, and I don’t think I will continue to eat pork when I get back to the states, but I felt like it was a cultural experience I should have before I left and am glad I did…kind of. I did not partake in any of the process but was an active observer and was reminded a little of middle school biology class as I got to know all the inside parts of the animal, up close.
Don Jorge and don Luis presenting my gift
That afternoon was the final FUDEBIOL asamblea, which is their big annual meeting that all the socios are invited to. Unfortunately, they kind of dropped the ball this year and forgot to send out invitations until the last minute, and then only via email, and Ticos really like their printed, hand-signed invitations, so not many people showed up. They felt bad because they had planned something special for me, but I thought it ended up being nicer because it was an intimate group and we just sat and talked for a while and everyone said nice things about the contributions I’d made to the organization and the community and I gave them some constructive feedback on my experience working with them. At the end they presented me with a certificate that welcomed me into the Orden del Sargento, which is apparently a very big honor that very few people have received in the 20 years that FUDEBIOL has existed. They also presented me with a really special gift. They had taken a picture of the biological reserve and given it to a famous artist in San Isidro and he reproduced it on a huge canvas. It is really beautiful and well-done and even has the giant ICE satellite that I helped them get included in the painting to represent my mark on the organization. I told them it would be a wonderful reminder of my “office” for the past two years in Costa Rica.
Me and the Jiménez girls
Denis and Naomy clad with all the medals I have accumulated over the past two years
Saturday night I had a big dinner with the Jiménez Calvo family: Yajaira, Glenda, Maruja, Luis, Naomy, Denis and Valeria. They were the neighbors of my old host family and ended up becoming some of my closest friends and the people I felt the most comfortable with and had the most fun with. The women are all entrepreneurial, with their jam business and jewelry/greeting cards, and they really take advantage of the opportunities and resources that are available to them more than most people I observed in Costa Rica. And they really did treat me like family, inviting me to every baby shower, wedding, bachelorette party and other family celebrations. And all the kids are SUPER cute.
Car parade outside my apartment
Sunday morning at 9am I heard honking outside my apartment and opened my door to a line of cars ready to take me in a procession up to our Salón Comunal. The first car was an open jeep decorated with hydrangeas and balloons and I had the seat of honor. We drove up honking and waving at every house we passed and then got to the Salón, where other community members were waiting to greet me, and even more were in the kitchen cooking. The tables were set up with lovely centerpieces, and the Talibanes, the famous local band that makes or breaks a party in Quebradas, were waiting with their instruments.
Seven community leaders in one place for the first time in my two years in Quebradas
Once more guests arrived and everyone started settling down, seven leaders from the different community groups I had worked with – FUDEBIOL, Guías y Scouts, ECC Quebradas, AQUA, AMOSA, Escuela Quebradas y la Asociasión de Desarrollo – had me come up and sit with them in front of everyone, and each made a small presentation thanking me for my contributions to their organization and gave me a gift. Then all seven of them came up together and don Luis Fallas, the president of FUDEBIOL, my official counterpart and the first person I met from Quebradas, made a heartfelt closing speech about the enormous mark I had left on the community and how not only would I always be welcome here, but that Quebradas belonged to me as much as it did to everyone else in that room. As a symbol of this ownership, they presented me with the “key to Quebradas,” a beautifully designed acrylic key with my name and the date engraved on it. Then I had to make a speech, and I somehow managed to choke back my tears and hold it together. What moved me more than anything was that this was the first time in my two years in Quebradas that I had seen all the community leaders achieve something together, and it was in my honor. Improving communication and coordination among community organizations was one of my main goals over the past two years, and I guess I did prove to be a unifying force, though I hope (and told them) that if they can plan an awesome party together, they can keep up the good work for other more lasting community initiatives. I said the greatest gift to me would be to keep going with the projects I helped start, and I do believe they took that to heart.
Tending to the chicharrones
Don Roger trying to feed my pig tongue
Then the fun part began, and everyone enjoyed my pig and the yucca, plantains and chimichurri that accompanied it. The Talibanes started playing and soon enough all my fun over-40 female friends were on the dance floor, and even my older, more serious male counterparts, Gilberth, Jorge, Luis and Roger, came out for a spin. Everyone was in good spirits and it ended up just being a really fun party. I remember looking around and thinking how weird it was that I didn’t know any of these people two years ago, and now I feel such a connection to them and it was amazing how loved and appreciated they made me feel.
Two years in five bags...not bad for a girl
I said most of my goodbyes there and then went home to finish packing. I had given away a LOT of stuff to other Peace Corps Volunteers and community members, but I somehow still had three over brimming suitcases full of stuff, which ultimately turned into four once I added in my new gifts. My neighbor Sirleny helped me jam everything in and zip everything up, which was much appreciated. That afternoon I went into town and met Angelo, who had offered to come keep me company my last night in my depressingly empty apartment and help me lug my suitcases to San José the next morning. His calming presence definitely helped keep me from freaking out in my final hours, which was much appreciated. We brought back pizza, the perfect food for a kitchen that has no remaining utensils, and then I took some ice cream over to the Jiménez family to share and say my final goodbye.
Breakfast with neighbors
The next morning the other family who I am closest to and who are practically my neighbors, Lila, Sirleny, Luis Carlos and Keneth, made me a huge amazing Tico breakfast with all the fixings: gallo pinto, homemade tortillas, fried plantains, fresh cheese and natilla, avocado, tamal asado, coffee, and even a little bit of leftover pig. Don Jorge and don Gilberth joined us, and then we loaded my suitcases into the back of Gilberth’s pick-up truck and headed down to the bus station. Saying goodbye to Lila, Sirleny and Luis was hard because they have been such good friends and always invite me over and bring me food and worry about me and it was sad to see how sad they were that I was leaving.
Then I took my last trip over the Mountain of Death as a Peace Corps Volunteer, one regular aspect of my life in Costa Rica that I will not miss. My trusty taxi driver Carlos picked us up at MUSOC and took us to Hotel Aranjuez, where Mark, Chamisa and Adrienne were also staying. Angelo treated me to a cocktail at the Grand Hotel Costa Rica, a historic landmark and former marquee destination across from the National Theater, which was fun/kind of classy. Later we met up with the others for dinner and bowling. I bowled a career high of 120, but Angelo of course had to come back and beat me in the last frame.
What will I miss more, the friends or the breakfast?
And this is one of the more agreeable faces I made...
The next morning we enjoyed what the Aranjuez does best, an extensive buffet breakfast in their pleasant garden area. And my friends witnessed and thoroughly photographed a historic moment in my life: I ate (half) a banana. I had to keep a promise I had made, and it seemed appropriate before leaving Costa Rica, but those of you who know me best know what a BIG deal that is. And it was gross!
Then came my final goodbyes with Chamisa and Angelo, two very important people who it was sad to think about not getting to see and talk to all the time, as they will both be staying in Costa Rica for another year, si Dios quiere. Chamisa has been an amazing friend and fun neighbor to have near San Isidro for the past two years. And those of you who have done some close reading of my blog may have noticed that Angelo became a major presence in my life over the past few months. I have had so much fun traveling, exploring, cooking, competing and just hanging out with him, which made it tough to say goodbye. But I know I will be back to visit them (and Brigitte!) and everyone in Quebradas next year, so as I have said many times in the past few days, it wasn’t really an adios, just an hasta luego.
Then Adrienne and I ventured off for our day of culture in San José, which included a visit to the Museum of Contemporary Art in La Sabana park, a lunchtime interpretive dance show at the National Theater, and then (by far the best part) lunch at a cute artsy restaurant where we shared panini, homemade pesto pasta, and amazing chocolate. Then we hugged and parted ways, being CED girls and therefore not that into emotional goodbyes. Adrienne has been my rock over the past two years, providing an escape and a laugh whenever I needed it, and we probably had more sleepovers than I have had with anyone since fifth grade (though we both refuse to cuddle). I feel so lucky that we got placed near each other and I got to know her and her beautiful, fun community at the base of Chirripo. Also, she has now saved my travel plans from absolute disaster twice, first by getting my passport to me in time for my Thanksgiving trip home, and again on Tuesday when I spacily left my credit card and ID at the lunch place. For that alone, I am forever indebted…
That afternoon I went to the Peace Corps office to start getting my final signatures on my COS papers and had coffee with Luis Jiménez from FINCA, the microfinance organization I worked with. It was cool to hear about his plans and dreams for the growth and development of the organization and to think about working on similar projects back home in the future, using my ties and experience with FINCA as a jumping off point. I think he will be a great connection to have if I do decide to pursue microfinance.
That evening Mark and I were the only ones left, and it turned out the Hotel Christina where we were supposed to stay that offers a Peace Corps discount had overbooked so they transferred us to a fancy four-star boutique hotel next door for no change in price, which was kind of cool. We had a nice dinner and reflected a little on our past 26 months, having started out together in Tarbaca, and we also got excited about moving back to California and eating In ‘N Out burgers. I know I’ll see him again soon, so our 4am groggy goodbye before he left for the airport was not too tearful.
My final orders of business were back in the Peace Corps office. I had my language placement exam and scored advanced high, which I was happy about, having come in to Peace Corps at intermediate mid. I feel like my Spanish plateau-ed many months ago, but it is good to leave knowing I have a strong command of the language. Now I just have to figure out how to keep it up!
I had one last goodbye with Carlos the taxi driver when he dropped me off at the airport, but he gave me his number and email and assured me he would be there to pick me up the next time I come visit. Then me and my four bags got on a plane to Panama City, where I met my mom en route to Colombia. We will be spending a week traveling around here before heading back to LA.
My head is still spinning with all the meaningful events of the past couple weeks, so I think I will blog once more when I get home and have had some time to digest before signing off. For now, I just want to make sure I get down all the important details and to try to capture the mix of emotions I am feeling as I close the door on what I know has been one of the most significant chapters of my life, although I think down the line I will appreciate more why and how. I am so glad my time here ended on such a high note, with projects, friendships and fun, but I must also remember there were some low points as well, and if I ever do forget I know there are a few blogposts I can refer to to back that up.
So for now, I just want to thank all you dutiful readers for following my adventures, sending notes of support and motivation and bearing with me through heaping amounts of text (I think this one might take the prize). It has been really fun to keep this blog, for myself and for a small but interested audience of family and friends. I hope you enjoyed the ride.
And now it is finally time to say: Peace out, Costa Rica…
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