Katie D's B&B

July brought a revolving door of visitors, from which I realized in retrospect I could have made some good money if I charged for room and board (except for the visitor who had to bring his own bed, so I guess it wouldn’t be fair…). Andrew and Maddie showed up in Quebradas the day of our big launch of the Scouts group, which was a lot of fun, and all the ladies of Quebradas thought Andrew was very handsome. The launch consisted of a short presentation from the regional directors and then an introduction of all the leaders and the board of directors in Quebradas and then all the kids split up into their age groups and did activities with another group that is already formed in a nearby community that came to help out. That was really cool because our kids could see the other kids in their uniforms with their patches and all the songs and games they know, which was a good motivator. The next day we all headed to Dominical for 4th of July, and we stumbled on probably the most gringo-ized celebration you can find in Costa Rica. It was a bbq and fundraiser for the lifeguards of Dominical, with a bunch of drunk Americans, hot dogs, a giant American flag and homemade ice cream. Unfortunately the fireworks were canceled due to the rain, but we got the idea. Then Andrew and Maddie came back to hang out and help out in Quebradas for a few days (I put them to work in the school garden and English class) before continuing on their travels up north.
Two days later, Dan arrived, queen-sized blow-up mattress in hand, for his 2-and-a-half week stay at Casa de Katie. It was so wonderful to have him down for a longer than usual period of time and to have some downtime at “home” together. He learned to do dishes and sweep like a true Quebradeñan, to stuff newspaper in his shoes after we got totally soaked and muddy on a hike with the Scouts in the pouring rain, and to kind of almost appreciate cold showers on a hot, humid day. He also helped up lay out the fifth version of La Voz Quebradeña, which came out in mid-July, got to watch some quality women’s indoor soccer, and figured out how to navigate the big city of San Isidro on his own, although he asked someone how to get to Korea before they finally figured out he needed a post office (correo).
We also got some fun weekend trips in and quality time with Liza. We went one day to visit her on the organic farm she was working at, and her philosopher-farmer host father took us on a longer-than-expected tour of the grounds, stopping to reflect and teach us life lessons regarding the environment, spirituality and the chicken and the egg. He was a very interesting man with a very different perspective than most of the people I have come across in rural Costa Rica.
Liza, Dan and I spent another weekend in Manuel Antonio, where we saw MANY monkeys, a sloth, went kayaking, swam at a beautiful beach inside the national park, enjoyed happy hour looking out over the pacific coast on a beautiful sunset, and ate really, really well.
On our final weekend all together, two more visitors were added to the mix. We met dad and Lynne in San José last Friday, where we went searching for a little culture in the big city and were pleasantly surprised to find a cool little art gallery, and even better, an amazing gift shop and café with lots of recycle-art products and incredible desserts. But the highlight of the night would have to be when we got back to the hotel and dad took us in to see the casino, which was basically what you would expect of a Best Western casino in San José, and as we quickly turned and made our way for the exit, who do we run into entering the building but the rabbi and his wife from the Pacific Palisades! They had just come from doing a wedding on the beach in Guanacaste and were just hitting up one of their favorite late-night spots in town. WOW. That’s a small world…
The next morning we headed out on our weekend excursion to Tortuguero National Park. It was a four hour bus ride through banana country and then an hour and a half boat ride to our river lodge. We stopped at the Del Monte factory to observe the process, and it looks like miserably hard and tedious work, especially for the guys who are in the fields hauling bundles of bananas in the oppressive heat through a system that looks like the guys who train for football by doing sprints with a string attached to a giant weight. The boat ride was beautiful and felt Amazonian, which is the way many people describe Tortuguero. Our jungle lodge was right on the river and can only be reached by boat, as can all the other lodges and even the community of Tortuguero, which is made up of walking paths and has no cars. It was pretty hot and buggy there, but it was a lovely setting and there was a ping pong table and many hammocks, so I was happy. The next morning we did a “jungle cruise” boat tour and saw beautiful birds, more monkeys, some cayman, and got rained on, which seemed only appropriate.
But that night was the really special experience that people make the long trip out to Tortuguero for. We took a night hike down the beach to where the green sea turtles come and lay their eggs every year from July to November. We saw various parts of the process, from the giant turtle shells floating in from the sea to make their trek up the shore, to one turtle actually in the process of laying her 50-plus eggs in the giant hole she had dug for herself in the sand, to another turtle who had finished the process, and, exhausted and slow, was making her way back to the sea. The whole process takes about two and a half hours, and the mama turtles never see their babies hatch, and only 1-2 of each group of eggs that is laid actually yields a surviving baby because of all the predators that lie between where they are hidden in the sand and the ocean they have to get to, unprotected. It was pretty amazing to get to see and to think that all of this is instinctive for these animals, and they do it without any help or anyone telling them what to do, and they do it six times in a row, with only 15 days in between! And they know exactly where to go. Definitely made me wish I had paid more attention in biology class…
On Monday morning we flew back to San José from Tortuguero, which only lasted about 30 minutes but was a great way to get a better sense of the geography of where we were and had some beautiful views, including the smoking Turrialba Volcano. Then we bid a sad farewell to Dan and dad, Lynne, Liza and I headed back down south. Liza went back for her final week on the farm, and dad and Lynne hung out with me until Tuesday, when they went to visit Liza and get to know her host families for a few days. So it was sad to say goodbye to everyone, but I had a great time having them visit and sharing in my experiences down here and having adventures of their own.
Now I have a pretty quiet month ahead of me, which I am looking forward to. I just attended ANOTHER training for Junior Achievement, so I am going to attempt that project again but with an organization in San Isidro and more support, and I am keeping busy with the Scouts and our micro-credit project AND I am (kind of) training for a half-marathon that a group of Volunteers is going to run in September in Tamarindo, which should be really fun, although I don’t think any of us are currently in the shape we would like to be. But it’s more just an excuse for a fun beach weekend and something to look forward to. Okay, hasta luego!

Busy busy busy

Introducing...Quebradas grupo #47 Guías y Scouts

Siempre lista!

The new face of ECC Quebradas

The DeWitt girls on the road to Turrialba

Night on the town

At the mall with the girls

So mid-June hit and my schedule for the following six weeks has been filled to the brim and will continue to be so through the end of July. Totally crazy, but all good things. From June 14-18, we had five full paid days at a fancy hotel in San José for our Tico 19 Mid-Service Training. It was filled with sessions reflecting on our first year of service and looking forward to our second year, sharing project ideas, giving feedback to Peace Corps staff, etc. We were fed every three hours between buffet breakfast, two cafecito breaks and lunch, and THEN for the first training ever we were actually free after 5p.m. to explore San José and choose our own dining options. One night we went to a mega-mall and ate TCBY and saw Sex and the City 2 among a young and metropolitan crowd, and it felt just like home. So all in all, a great break from my site to rejuvenate, see people I hadn’t seen in a while, eat good food, sleep in a super-comfy bed, take hot water showers and even watch some World Cup games on a big screen TV!

On the last night of MST, Liza got in from the US and crashed in our hotel and the next morning we went with a group of 25 volunteers and friends of volunteers on a river rafting trip in Turrialba. It was SO beautiful and the rapids were big enough that Liza and I both fell out of our boat at the same time, but not so big that it was actually scary. We spent an evening in Turrialba with Adrienne and Brigitte and then headed back to Quebradas on Sunday. It was back to work for me on Monday, and Liza went off to begin her volunteer program working on various organic farms in some nearby communities.

Highlights of my week included electing our Junta Directiva and selling our first stocks at the newly formed Quebradas Community Credit Enterprise, getting my Scouts uniform and marching in the weekend church parade to promote the group, which we are officially launching on Saturday, July 3 (si Dios quiere) and playing bingo with Liza and pretty much every single person in my community at a very successful church fundraiser on Sunday. It is so fun to have my sister around to hang out in the apartment and around Quebradas and I am so excited to get to see more of Costa Rica with her in the next month!

Now I am BACK in San José for two days, but this time it’s not as much of a vacation. We are slaving away at what will by my last edition of La Cadena, the quarterly national Peace Corps publication. Then I rush back to my site tomorrow morning in time for English class and to get organized for our Scouts launch, our first loan at the CCE, and a 4th of July visit from the DeWitt cousins. Who would’ve thought I could find a way to be THIS busy in the Peace Corps?

Scouts Camp

This was definitely one of the more remarkable weekends I have spent in Costa Rica. It began, in typical Katie DeWitt fashion, with me trying to participate in multiple activities that occur at the same time instead of choosing one or the other. As I now do every Friday evening, I went to teach my micro-finance course from 6-8, then literally ran back down the hill to my apartment, grabbed my pre-packed gear (which included a sleeping bag and pillow, a pan and dishware, clothes, toiletries, a costume and my “siempre listo” bag of tape, scissors, needle and thread, rope, tissues and a bandana) and made the 8:10 bus into San Isidro, where the Regional Director of Guías y Scouts picked me up and whisked me off to General Viejo, where the adventure really began.

When I arrived around 9pm, the 30 other “campers” were already divided into their troops diligently practicing their knot-tying. I was shown to my group, the Castoras (beavers) and immediately told to get out my rope and start practicing. They seemed a little peeved that I had arrived late, as it could possibly put them at a disadvantage in our evaluation since I would be behind on my knotting skills. Not to mention that I had NEVER tied a knot for any useful purpose other than my shoelaces in my life, and that all the names were in Spanish.

We were all out until 10:30 working on knots and then sent to our various tents to rest. I briefly saw Yajaira, José, and Nalleli, the three Scouts leaders from Quebradas and the reason I decided to do the camp, but we were all dispersed. I shared a tent with the five other beavers: Sharon (our leader), Yanoori, Roxana, Mayra and Yohana. The latter four were all mothers ages 25-45 who were interested in being Scouts leaders because their kids participate in various groups. Sharon was my age and VERY energetic and intense about being a leader, but that made here very good at it. Anyways they all seemed to lighten up once we were getting ready for bed, and we got to know each other a bit, but Sharon would not let us go to sleep until we had thought of a really good cheer for our group, which kept us up until 2am, when she announced that she was setting her alarm for 4:30 am so we could all be showered and ready for breakfast at 6. That was when I realized it was going to be a looooooong weekend…

Saturday was jam-packed from 6am to 11pm with sessions and activities on constructing with bamboo, using and maintaining tools (yes, mom, I had to sharpen a machete), putting up and taking down a campsite for all weather conditions, and planning and designing a campfire. The evening concluded with said campfire, during which our costumes were used, many songs were sung, and at the end marshmallows were handed out and I got SO excited that we were making s’mores, until I saw people just eating the marshmallows plain, without even roasting them.

We got slightly more sleep on Saturday but were still up by 5 on Sunday, as the Castoras were assigned flag-raising duty, and Sharon wanted to make sure we had plenty of time to get it just right. Then we had various closing events, including some Bible-reading and reflection and our final knot-tying examinations (I think they went easy on me), and then packed everything up, had lunch and were out of there by 1pm. Saying goodbye to everyone felt like the last day of summer camp, and as the four Quebradeñans boarded our bus home, we were all giddy with excitement and exhaustion.

So, what was my takeaway from this most unique and intense of experiences? I’m still processing and running on not enough sleep, but I found that I enjoyed myself more than I’d anticipated and was thoroughly impressed with the entire operation. That is to say, these were not stereotypical Ticos in the sense of Pura Vida, arrive late to meetings, slow-paced, do-it-tomorrow attitudes. Every participant and director at that camp clearly had a passion for the organization and an energy that they wanted to do something productive with. Many of them have had similar experience in their communities in terms of lack of support from parents, lack of organization on the Board of Directors, lack of monetary resources for uniforms and other equipment, but they have all made it work because they believe in the values that the Guías y Scouts represent, for themselves and the kids they are sharing them with.

I still don’t know that the Scouts would have been for me as a kid, but in a country and culture that is often lacking in discipline, organizations, and defined goals, I think the organization can offer a lot to children and parents alike. It made me happy to see how much the other participants from Quebradas were enjoying themselves, and I hope that we can all bring the spirit of our experience back to the community and get the rest of the group excited and keep this project moving forward.

Unfortunately I didn’t bring my camera, but many pictures were taken so I hope to get a hold of some soon and share with you all, just in case you don’t believe I can tie a butterfly, fugitive or fireman knot. Not sure I’d be capable of using them for anything useful, but they look good…

Cautiously Optimistic

Pizza party in Bijagua

Awkward self-photo at Río Celeste

New kitties living between the walls of my apartment and my neighbors

Recycle art project with the 4th graders

Oxen and oxcarts on the city streets in San Isidro

So I always hate to say this out loud, and it’s even more dangerous to write down where it will be forever visible somewhere in the blogosphere, but work has been going really well in the past few weeks. I have now been in Quebradas for exactly a year, and I have spent a significant amount of that time making a significant effort to integrate into the community, convince people to show up at my meetings and motivate them to get involved in projects. Something between a community organizer, consultant, and party planner. During this time, I have faced many disappointments and learned to measure success in baby steps. Most of all, I have learned to manage my expectations, which is why it makes me nervous how well things are going right now. But as many former Peace Corps Volunteers have told me, it can take a full year to really get things moving in your communities, and more and more now I understand why.

Our Boy Scouts and Girl Scouts group, which we started talking about in January after our successful summer camp, took a while to get organized, and it didn’t look like there was going to be enough enthusiasm for the project at some points. But we now have a Board of Directors, a group of adult troop leaders, and a planned formal inauguration date to launch the group. We also have colors for our scarves, a logo, and a knot that symbolizes our “commitment to conservation,” the part that sounds the easiest but of course became VERY contentious. I attended my first training with the other troop leaders, in which we learned the various salutes, symbolism of different colors and animals for different age groups, and played games where we had to try to pop the balloons tied around other people’s ankles. It kind of made me wish I had been a scout myself. Though they don’t sell the cookies here…

I also got a new project started, the project I have been most interested in since I got here but needed this long to get to know people, establish trust and respect, and identify a solid group to move forward. This is the formation of a Community Credit Enterprise in Quebradas to give small loans to micro-entrepreneurs in the community. After two informational meetings with FINCA, the umbrella organization that Peace Corps works with to support ECC projects, we were able to get more than the requisite 15 people to sign up to participate in the training and form the organization. Then FINCA leaves me to actually carry out those trainings, coming back to check in and help out only for the most complicated ones. SO that means that I have to do a lot of teaching myself before I can teach the group the basics of capital, stocks, loans, accounting, etc. IN SPANISH. Fortunately, this is the kind of challenge I have been craving, and I think the material is interesting and will be useful to me for my future as well, so I do not mind the three to four hours of preparation that every meeting requires. It is a 22-step process, and we have now gotten through step 3, so there is quite a ways to go, but the idea is that we do one step every week, and the ECC is officially formed and can start selling stocks and giving out loans after step 7, which isn’t too far. Anyways I am really happy about how enthusiastic and motivated the group is, and my biggest concern is just keeping up that energy through the whole process.

And finally, I had a good breakthrough with the school this week. I have been working with them on environmental education since I first get here, but by working “with” them I mean the teachers generally leave the classroom to sit and have coffee as soon as I enter. Last year, there was a teacher who was really supportive of the recycling project and helped form a committee of parents, but now that’s she’s gone I have really been running it on my own, which doesn’t make much sense. Fortunately, Elysa, the Italian volunteer here, has been helping me with the classes and trash separation, which has kept me sane, but she is leaving in July and regardless, the teachers and parents should be more involved. So I talked to the school director about it, and she invited me to the Board of Parents meeting and also set up a meeting between all the teachers. They were all very supportive and said of course they wanted to continue to recycling and they understand how important it is and just let them know how they can help. We’ll see how much their words turn into actions, but at least the communication channels have been opened.

There has been time for a little fun, too. Last weekend, Adrienne and I made the looooooong journey up north to visit Brigitte in Bijagua. It was about a nine hour trip in total, which was pretty brutal but I have definitely gotten used to spending more time on public transportation and not worrying about urgently getting anywhere. So we spent two nights with her in her cute little house, visited Río Celeste and some hot springs, met her friends, made fajitas, baked cookies, watched movies, and went out for pizza. All in all, a short but very successful visit. It is always fun to see what other people’s sites are like because it makes you realize how different each of our Peace Corps experiences are, even within Costa Rica, though we share many of the same experiences and frustrations.

Big plans for this weekend include an ECC meeting tonight, taking an Italian cooking lesson tomorrow from Elysa, rock-painting with the artisan group on Sunday and planning our next community newspaper. And most importantly, rumor has it that a Pop’s ice cream shop just opened behind the church in San Isidro, so I will most definitely be finding my way down there. MY Peace Corps experience just got that much better…

Hitting the halfway mark

So yes, not that I’m counting, but I have now officially been in Costa Rica for a longer time than what remains of my Peace Corps service. This is particularly evident because Tico 18, the group that came a year before me, is on their way out next week, and Tico 20, the group that got here in March, have been assigned their sites and are about to be sworn in as PCV’s, like I was a year ago. Additionally, I remember since before I left talking with my mom about going to Peru a year into my service, and the trip finally came and went and was as or more amazing as I had imagined.

I met my mom and Dan in Lima on April 16, and from there we all flew to Cuzco the next morning and spent a week hiking through the Andes, exploring ruins, learning about ancient Incan and current Peruvian culture (which included drinking many Pisco Sours), and of course delighting in the wonder and mystery of Machu Pichu. The landscapes were beautiful and SO different from Costa Rica, as were the people. Much more indigenous influence and history. It was really interesting to experience another Latin American culture after being in Costa Rica for a year, and to imagine how different it would be to be a Peace Corps Volunteer there. We visited a tiny, poor town in the mountains called Hueloc where there was one telephone and one radio for the whole community and no other means of communication, everyone dressed in typical Peruvian weavings, the kids, many barefoot and dirty but all with big smiles, lined up and then clamored over us as we handed out bread, oranges and bananas, and there is no bus that comes anywhere near the windy dirt road that leads to the entrance of the community. It definitely made me realize how much more developed Costa Rica is on the scale of “developing” countries. But most of all, it was so wonderful to share the experience with my mom and Dan and as always, very hard to say goodbye.

Now I’ve been back in Quebradas for two weeks, recharged and slowly easing back into things. The big news is that we harvested our first vegetables in the school garden. That’s right, I, Katie DeWitt, made something grow. It wasn’t as easy as it sounds, and I was pretty heartbroken when during my first class back, it started to pour rain in the afternoon and the greenhouse completely flooded, knocking down two of our plant boxes and creating one big, muddy mess. Right, the rainy season is back, which will complicate everything for the next eight months…BUT the kids were great and didn’t mind getting muddy and helped dig a canal around the whole greenhouse to catch and divert the water, and we were able to salvage most of our work. The following week, we had a big bucket of radishes for the school dining hall as well as mustard lettuce and squash for the kids to take home. Everyone was very excited.

In other news, I started a new English class for beginners because there were so many people that had been asking me for it, so although I was entirely opposed to teaching English when I signed up for the Peace Corps, it turns out it is really important here because of the amount of tourism and ex-pats that live here, and it turns out I actually enjoy it and am finding it one of the best ways to really get to know people and empower them to achieve something they never thought they were capable of. I also started a computer class in our new computer center up at FUDEBIOL for the kids who live up there. Turns out, surprise surprise, that since I’m not very good at computers in English, it’s pretty tricky teaching someone else how to use them in Spanish, but everyone seemed to enjoy themselves. Our fourth version of the community newsletter came out right before I left for Peru, and this time it was better quality print and more pages in color, which was exciting, but I think I am going to take a break from that for a bit and maybe start releasing it every four months instead of every two months and really try to start looking for someone who can take more responsibility in the project, because it is a lot of work and not very sustainable if I am doing most of it on my own. We officially formed the Board of Directors for our Guías y Scouts group and have a training tomorrow, so hopefully we will be able to sign up kids soon and really get moving. And finally, last Sunday I invited FINCA, the microfinance organization that Peace Corps works with, to give a charla on how to start a Community Credit Enterprise, and although not as many people showed up as I had hoped, most of those who did seemed really enthusiastic about the project, so hopefully they can pull some other good people into it and we can get a dedicated group together.

So as usual, I have lots going on, but have learned after a year of practice that these things all take more time than anticipated and that not all of them are going to work, or at least not in the way I expect them to. If nothing else, I think it’s a very valuable lesson…

Holy Week, Yoga and the Katies’ Adventures

Our bed"room" at the Yoga Farm

View from the yoga deck

My special candle placed, appropriately, in my home-welded menorah

As my dad and Lynne filled me in on who was coming to Passover dinner this year, I was reminded of my invitation on the second night of Passover to participate in a religious march through Quebradas, and some members of the church group had even made me a special candle to carry, so I kind of had to show up. There was no charoset or matzah, but lots of singing and hugging, so at least there was that similarity between my past Passovers and this year’s Holy Tuesday. That was one of many activities planned in Quebradas for Semana Santa. All the kids are off school and most people have Thursday and Friday off work, so it is kind of like spring break with a lot of praying and eating.

But for Peace Corps Volunteers, Semana Santa usually means a great time to pasear and aprovechar the last days of summer, which is exactly what I did. It is also a time to reflect, which seemed appropriate since I’m about at my halfway point now and want to make the most of my next year here. So Brigitte, Adrienne, Chamisa and I headed down to Golfito, where we picked up Katie McKinstry, who had flown down, and all shared a 4x4 taxi to Punta Banco, which is super far south right by Panama on the west coast. There we spent three days in paradise at the Yoga Farm, interpret name as you will. It is basically a retreat center for really beautiful, healthy people (mostly women) who all talk really slow and smile a lot. Us being the obvious misfits…Nevertheless, we were immediately welcomed into the community and got quickly sucked into the lifestyle. Wake up, yoga, eat, beach, eat, read, yoga, eat [insert game of Bananagrams if we had energy], sleep. The “farm” basically consists of an open kitchen and dining area, wooden lodge with yoga deck and a few bedrooms, two composting toilets, two showers and an organic garden. All with an amazing view of the ocean down below and a soft breeze. Meals were healthy and light, and I was a little disappointed when I first realized there would be no chocolate cake or ice cream for three days, but the rest of the experience made up for that. So it was a great spot to just kind of cleanse and think and be with friends and really truly relax. When we left, one of the guys who runs the place told us we brought a great energy to the farm, which we took as the utmost compliment from this crowd.

Then it was of course back to work and a VERY busy week, which was made infinitely easier and more fun by Katie’s presence. She was a serious asset working in the school garden, proctoring my English test, proving to Tico’s in my community that I am not the only crazy person that runs for fun, but most amazingly pretty much being my housewife for the week. I arrived home every night exhausted after class or meetings to delicious, healthy food on the table (she even made matzah balls one night from Lynne's mix so now actually qualifies as a Jewish housewife), clean dishes, and even clean laundry! Now I can definitely see what the machista men her are hanging onto…We also got to do some of her favorite activities from home with a Costa Rican twist, including jam-making with a local women’s business, shopping at the farmer’s market in San Isidro, planting my own mini herb garden and hiking up a giant mountain. She also got her first every pedicure with my neighbor, and it was Tica-fabulous with French tips and a painted flower for less than $4! That deal is hard to beat in NYC.

On Saturday morning we switched gears and took a super early bus to San José, where we were picked up by my Assistant Program Director and taken to Tarbaca, my original training community, where I gave a presentation on how to start a community newsletter and working strategically with community organizations to the 19 new Tico 20 CED Trainees. It was really fun to see their group dynamic, remember how I felt a year ago in their shoes (and how happy I am I’m not there anymore), and to feel like I actually now have something of value to say and impart on the next generation. Mark and Brigitte were there too, so afterwards we headed down to the family compound where Mark and Jake used to live and hung out with their old host families, which was SO much fun because of course they haven’t changed at all and are as crazy and wonderful and welcoming as ever. After being fed twice and hearing a lot of bad jokes, we finally made our way back down to San José and checked into our various hotels and rested a bit before the annual all-Volunteer dinner/dance party, which was at a bar/restaurant nearby. Since by then Katie had learned all the Peace Corps acronyms and project goals after sitting through our four hour presentation that morning, she fit in at the dinner with no problem. It was a really fun night and I saw a lot of people I haven’t seen in a long time and met some more of the new Trainees and got to say goodbye to some of the Tico 18ers, who are leaving in less than a month. Weird.

Then this morning Katie and I enjoyed San José’s best complimentary breakfast at Hotel Aranjuez, walked around the city a bit, and parted ways as she went on to Monteverde and I headed back to Quebradas. I couldn’t have asked for a more open-minded and adventurous visitor, and it is sad to not hear her shifting around on my deflated air mattress outside tonight, but it was so fun to have her and I suppose I will just have to readjust to taking care of myself again…

All these pictures looked better in person, but...

Baile típico at the Feria de Agua

Up in the Air

Composing my victory haiku

Chirripo is just around the bend!

View of Los Crestones (still looking for a direct English translation)

That was just celebrating getting to base camp...

Making progress on the 4R's...